Musing: Slow Fashion

I just thought I would post a link for my European readers to this award for Slow Fashion. Like slow cooking, slow fashion concerns itself with the manner in which something is made. Those of us who subscribe to green fashion tenets most often also subscribe to ideas of slow fashion.

For Meleté and Mnemosyne this means quite a bit. Our process takes time, so when you see that our turnaround for orders is about 3-5 weeks, let me tell you just what that means. Once you have placed your order and introduced yourself I know you, or at least something about you; your shape in the world and the colors you like to wear, colors that make you feel good about yourself. Then it is on to the practicalities of manifesting your desire.

First: the material. I work primarily with bamboo, organic cotton, and hemp. Unfortunately, these materials are not widely available and rarely make an appearance at your local fabric store. So, over the years we have done plenty of research and now order our material from some tried and true sources. Availability is limited, and so is the selection.

Second: the color. Since most of materials come to me in black or natural, I've had to become quite proficient at dying garments and fabric myself using a rather precise concoction of soda ash, salt, and natural pigments. You would be surprised at how long it took to actually be able to achieve consistent results given these variables and water temperature, volume, and cycle length.

Third: prints and patterns. When I first started this process, I learned quite a bit about silk screening, embroidery, and airbrush. I have a real desire to see graphic elements on my designs and at first that meant painting my own silk to screen designs. We still use those screens to pull patterns on some of our most popular pieces (Little Miss and Turn of Tide).

Fourth: pattern making. Meleté is a sister shop that is designed to take Mnemosyne's reproducible pieces and offer them in standardized sizes and colors, as well as bespoke or custom. So I either begin with a pattern I've drawn and graded by hand, or I take my basic sloper and create a new pattern specifically for someone's measurements. Altering a pattern to fit perfectly takes time when done mindfully, but the effect is well worth the additional effort and small fee.

Fifth: cutting. I make sure that when I cut a garment I do so one piece at a time, I line up the grain and I'm sure to press the fabric before hand. These are some simple things that make a big difference in the final drape and look of a dress, skirt or shirt. They are also things that make me feel like my mom or grandma; both of them are real sticklers for clean lines and perfect seams. And ultimately, it is my intention that when you order a piece from me, you receive something that feels like it was made by a loving sister or aunt.

Sixth: sewing. Everything is sewn together by hand using cotton thread. It makes a big difference in the longevity of a garment. If you are using natural fibers, you should really use cotton thread. Polyester is synthetic, plastic, and it will ultimately cut the fibers of your clothes before releasing its hold. So trust me, you would rather have a garment wear evenly, and be evenly open to repair or rebuilding, than you would a garment that shreds itself apart before the material shows any sign of reasonable wear and tear.

Seventh: finishing. The polish of a piece is in the finishing. And really, this is where I find myself most closely linked to the traditions of the past. Whether I'm adding repurposed buttons to a fresh design, or embroidering some heirloom pattern, I feel the deep connection that activity gives me, not only with my family, but with women and creators across and through time. It is a slow process, meditative, and reflective. It is a rhythm that ties loose ends together, finishes seams, and irons out creases, literally and metaphorically.

All of these things go into your piece before I press it, fold it, wrap it, address it, and send it to your home. This is a gift you give yourself or someone you love and I know it, because it is a gift you've also given me. You gave me time spent slowly, making something beautiful. And that is the way I prefer to spend my day. And today is my birthday.